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Gooseberry and Elderflower Jam

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A classic English summer preserve

Like most jam recipes, there are a multitude of regional and personal variations on how to get this jam just right. This is my own take on how to make what is in my opinion one of the best English preserves.
1.5 kg/3 pounds of gooseberries
1.25 kg/2 and a half pounds of sugar
Half a dozen elderflower heads
a knob of butter
Top and tail the gooseberries, and wash them in cold water. Put them into a large, heavy pan (such as a preserving pan) and add an inch (2cm) of water in the bottom. Gently bring to the boil and cook to a pulp.
When the fruit is pulped, add the sugar. When it has fully dissolved add the butter, increase the heat, and boil the jam in the ordinary way until setting point is reached.
Rub the elderflower heads between your hands into a bowl, and add them to the jam for the last five minutes of cooking. Pour the jam into sterile jars and seal.
This recipe also works tremendously well with apricots instead of gooseberries.